Properly managed, such programs can be a satisfactory solution to the problem of feral colonies that have become too large or need to be relocated because of health issues.

Although the animals concerned are not regarded as pets, the people who “adopt” them must agree to provide minimum shelter, a small daily amount of cat food to augment whatever prey is taken by hunting, and veterinary care if necessary.

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Early signs that might be noticed include wet hairs, reddened skin, and hair loss in the areas of biting and scratching. Prolonged itching results in further hair loss, excessive scaling and thickening, and discoloration of the involved skin.

Secondary skin infections are common. Severe and/or prolonged itching is most always a symptom of an underlying skin disorder. As a result, correction of the underlying problem is imperative if the symptom of itching is to be successfully controlled.

Inhalant Allergic Dermatitis (Atopic Dermatitis; Atopy)

Inhalant allergic dermatitis represents one of the most common causes of itching in cats across the United States. Atopy often produces severe itching and is frequently accompanied by skin infection (folliculitis), scaling, hair loss, and discoloration.

Atopy parallels human hay fever, except that itching is the primary symptom in the cat rather than the respiratory symptoms exhibited by people. Licking and chewing of the feet, legs, and flank are common symptoms reported by owners, along with generalized scratching.

Atopy is inherited and usually develops between the ages of 6 months and 4 years, following exposure to immune-system-stimulating substances called allergens. Although atopy is seasonal, sporadic, and relatively mild in its early stages, it often becomes perennial, and worsens in severity with time.

Unfortunately, pets do not outgrow these allergies. Dust (and dust mites), fungal spores, and pollens from trees, shrubs, and grasses can all initiate an allergy in cats. Since these substances are present in the air and can be carried hundreds of miles by wind, trying to avoid them by restricting a pet’s environment is not possible.

Diagnosis of atopy is based on clinical signs seen, seasonality of such signs, and allergy testing. There are currently two methods of allergy testing available: intradermal skin testing and serum testing. Intradermal skin testing involves injecting a number of different allergens into the skin of the patient and observing the injection sites for a corresponding allergic reaction.

This type of testing has been used effectively for allergy diagnosis for years and provides the most definitive way to find out what a pet is actually allergic to. Serum testing is also used to diagnose allergies.

These tests involve the evaluation of a serum sample from the allergic pet for antibodies to substances to which it might be allergic. The advantage such testing affords over skin testing is that it is much easier to perform and causes little discomfort to the patient.

However, since the accuracy of such tests is still being debated within the veterinary community, intradermal skin testing is still considered by some experts to be the most definitive way to diagnose atopy.

There are four ways to approach treatment for atopy: steroid anti-inflammatory (cortisone-type) drugs, antihistamine/fatty-acid therapy, topical therapy, and allergy shots or hyposensitization.

Steroid Anti-Inflammatories (Cortisone-Type Drugs)

These medications temporarily suppress the itching sensations produced by the allergy. Steroid anti-inflammatories are never curative, yet they can offer effective relief from itching for days to weeks. Increases in water consumption, urination frequency, and appetite are sometimes seen in pets placed on steroid therapy.

Unfortunately, prolonged steroid usage over months might produce side effects much more unpleasant than these, including bloating (water retention), muscle atrophy, skin thinning, hair loss, and decreased resistance to infection.

In addition, while these steroids are being administered to a pet (especially dogs), its body’s ability to produce its own cortisone is suppressed, and might not return even when the steroid therapy is discontinued.

If this happens, the pet could go into shock and die. As a result, long-term usage of these drugs for allergic dermatitis should be done only under the close scrutiny of a veterinarian.

Antihistamine/Fatty-Acid Therapy

Scientific studies have shown that antihistamine medications alone do little to suppress itching caused by atopic dermatitis. Because antihistamine drugs can cause drowsiness, they can be useful for helping calm down a frustrated pet that can’t stop itching and chewing on itself.

Omega-3 fatty acids can be quite beneficial to atopic cats. It seems that these fatty acids, which are derived from cold-water fish such as salmon, do have the ability in some cases to reduce inflammatory responses and stop itching.

Others require additional medications, such as antihistamines, in order to achieve an acceptable comfort level. Although the effectiveness of this therapy can vary between cases, it does provide a unique alternative to steroid therapy.

Topical Therapy

Topical treatments by themselves do little to provide lasting relief to the atopic pet. However, when used in combination with other forms of therapy, they can potentiate the effects of these other treatments.

One such topical product, a colloidal oatmeal conditioner, can provide effective topical relief for atopic cats. Along with applying it after bathing, it can also be used as a daily spray (create a 10 to 25% mixture with filtered water and place in a spray bottle) as well.

The advantage of using oatmeal conditioners versus shampooing is twofold: (1) A conditioner will help moisturize and soothe the skin with repeated use, whereas shampoos can dry out the skin; and (2) colloidal oatmeal is known to be an effective anti-itch agent and can be applied as many times during the day as necessary to provide relief.

Just be sure to brush your pet thoroughly after each application to work the conditioner down to the skin.

Allergy Shots or Hyposensitization

An alternative approach to treating allergies aside from the ones just mentioned is to hyposensitize the pet using allergen injections. This approach requires allergy testing to be performed, followed by a series of injections of the exact allergens or agents causing the reaction.

Although this approach is not effective in all instances, some veterinary dermatology specialists do report at least an 85 to 90 percent success rate; this rate is based on at least 50 percent overall improvement in the allergic pet’s condition.

However, since inhalant allergens are poor stimulators of immunity, this improvement takes some time. Owners should allow anywhere from 1 to 6 months before making a final judgment as to the effectiveness of the treatment. In most cases, maintenance injections given monthly will be required for the lifetime of the pet.

Fleabite Hypersensitivity

Aside from the discomfort caused by the actual bite of a flea, cats might develop an allergic response to the flea’s saliva deposited in the skin during feeding. Moderate to severe itching and hair loss can result, especially along the back near the tail, hips, and hindleg areas.

Some allergic pets can harbor staphylococcal bacteria not found on the skin of nonallergic pets. Irritation resulting from fleabites can produce a skin infection (folliculitis) on the damaged skin surface and hair follicles.

Toxins released from these bacteria might further intensify the itch-scratch cycle. As one might guess, successful treatment of a flea allergy is heavily dependent on the ability to control fleas on the pet and in the environment.

Food Hypersensitivity (Food Allergies)

Food allergies are a potential cause of nonseasonal itching in cats. Other dermatological symptoms might include hives, facial swelling, and chronic ear infections as well.

Besides these skin-related problems, food-related allergies have also been implicated in gastrointestinal disorders, such as diarrhea, vomiting, and/or excess gas.

Diagnosis of food hypersensitivity requires the exclusive feeding of a hypoallergenic diet containing a protein source that is not commonly used in commercial pet foods for 8 weeks. Such diets are available through veterinarians.

If a positive diagnosis is made, the pet will need to remain on the hypoallergenic diet indefinitely. Simply changing food brands or types seldom benefits food allergy cases since most commercial foods contain similar ingredients.

Food items such as milk, animal proteins, and vegetable proteins are the most common culprits causing food-induced allergies in pets.

Contact Hypersensitivity – (Contact Allergy)

The haircoat of cats offers an efficient protective barrier to many substances and agents that could produce an allergic reaction just by coming in contact with the skin. Therefore, those areas relatively devoid of hair such as the chest, abdomen, and feet are more susceptible to contact allergies.

The most common contact-allergy-producing agents include detergents, shampoos, pet sprays, collars, and insecticides, which, in liquid form, can penetrate the normally protective haircoat. In addition, bedding that is moldy or has been chemically treated can cause contact hypersensitivity.

Symptoms of such exposure include redness and swelling of the skin and intense itching. These signs will generally develop within 24 to 72 hours after exposure. Chemicals that can normally irritate the skin might produce similar symptoms immediately after contact.

Such reactions are not to be confused with slower developing hypersensitivity. Treatment of contact allergies requires the removal of the offending agent and administration of topical and/or systemic anti-inflammatory drugs.

A thorough history of the pet’s exposure to chemicals and exposure to any environment vegetation is imperative in the veterinarian’s effort to identify the allergy-producing agent. Bacterial Infections Bacterial infections involving the skin are itchy in themselves.

As a result, when they occur secondarily to an allergy or parasitic infestation, it can mean sheer misery for a pet. It is for this reason that many treatments for other skin ailments are combined with antibiotic therapy.

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Brushing

Whether your cat has short or long hair, brushing the coat thoroughly on a daily basis will aid in its appearance as well as promote healthy skin. It does this by:

• Removing telogen (dead) hairs from the coat, making way for new ones to grow in.
• Preventing tangles and mats
• Stimulating sebaceous gland activity, which keeps the skin moisturized and the hair- coat shiny. Brushing also helps to spread these oils across the entire skin and coat.
• Removing scale (excess keratin), which could lead to itching.
• Increasing owner awareness of the presence of external parasites or other skin-related problems.

Long-haired and/or thick-coated breeds require more diligent brushing than do shorter-coated cats. Minor shedding is normal year – round in all breeds. However, because the shedding cycle is stimulated by changes in day length, most will occur during the spring and fall months, when the days become longer and shorter, respectively.

Be sure to choose the right type of brush for your pet. In general, the wider the bristles or pins are placed on the brush, the longer the coat it is designed to be used on. Long-coated cats should be brushed
using a wire-pin brush or comb. For shorthaired cats, a bristle-type brush or rubber curry comb will do the trick.

Most of these consist of a square head containing lots of tiny wire projections, and they can be used on almost any type of haircoat for removing shed hair and tangles.

Purchase of a comb is optional, unless you own a cat or one of the silky-fur breeds with a coat that might be too delicate for many standard brushes. Combs can also come in quite handy for removing tangles and mats when used in conjunction with scissors.

Like brushes, the teeth of combs are set at different widths apart for different types of coats: widely spaced for thicker coats and closely spaced for longer, silkier hair. Just keep in mind that using the wrong type of brush or comb can be painful to your pet and actually damage the haircoat. For this reason, choose grooming tools with care.

Always use firm, short strokes when brushing, never forcing the brush through the coat, brush with the grain of the hair. To help in the removal of shed hair, use towels or disposable gloves to buff the coat after brushing.

If you encounter a mat, don’t try to forcefully remove it with the brush. Instead, try to work it free with your fingers, using one hand to free the tangle and the other to stabilize the tuft of hair to keep it from pulling the skin. If the mat or tangle still can’t be freed, insert a comb between the mat and the skin surface; then take a pair of blunt-nosed scissors and snip as much of the mat off as you can between the comb and the free end of the hair.

Don’t worry about cosmetic appearances. It will grow back! Mats that are left in place can promote infection involving the skin beneath. And always remember: If you brush your pet as often as you should, you won’t have a problem with matting!

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There are hazards on the far side of the catflap, such as traffic and other animals, that you can do little to protect your cat from once he is out there on his own. What you can do is try to make territory close to home as safe and inviting as possible.

Call of the Wild

Domestic cats were once wild animals, adapted to living and roaming in open spaces. Many of their wild instincts remain, but the world that cats inhabit has changed dramatically. Many cat owners live in urban environments, surrounded by busy roads, buildings, people, and other animals, and an outdoor cat will have to contend with all these hazards.

So should you allow your cat to go outdoors  as and when he pleases? Take your pet’s personality into account when deciding on the limits of his freedom. Confining an active and inquisitive cat indoors can lead to havoc in the house, but on the other hand you must consider the greater risks outdoors. Not all cats develop good road sense, and some will inevitably fall victim to passing cars.

If you let your cat go out after dark, buy him a collar with reflective patches that can be picked up in vehicle headlights. Cats are naturally more active at dawn or dusk—which are often  the peak rush hour periods on the roads. Try to keep your cat indoors at these times.

Given his freedom, your cat is likely to  roam beyond your yard. This leaves him vulnerable to encounters with other cats, wild animals, and possibly even cat thieves.

Creating a Backyard Sanctuary

High fencing could deter your cat from wandering, but it is an expensive option. The best way to keep an outdoor cat close  to home is to make your yard a cat-friendly sanctuary. Plant bushes to provide shade and shelter as well as a few scented plants that cats love—such as catnip, mint, valerian, heather, and lemongrass—in sunny places for your cat to bask among.

If you habitually spray your grass and plants with chemicals, leave an untreated clump of cat grass for your pet to snack on. Make the yard as safe as possible for wildlife, too.

Attach a bell to your cat’s collar to warn birds and other creatures of his presence. Bird tables and scattered food are a magnet for predators, so ensure that all bird feeders are placed out of reach of  the most determined cat.

Territorial Disputes

Once your yard is cat-friendly, it will undoubtedly attract other cats. Feline disputes are certain to break out because cats are territorial animals. Make sure your cat is neutered; this reduces aggression among tomcats and avoids constant pregnancies among females.

Neutered cats need smaller territories, but that will not stop your cat from straying or an unneutered feral tom from invading your cat’s territory and picking a fight. Make sure that your cat is immunized against common diseases, because fights inevitably lead to bites and scratches that can become infected.

Respecting the Neighbors

Appreciate that not all of your neighbors are cat lovers. Some people are allergic to cats and go to great lengths to avoid them. Even the best-trained cats have bad habits—they dig up flowerbeds to defecate, chew on plants, spray, rip open garbage bags, chase birds, and wander into other homes uninvited.

If your cat has been neutered, there is at least the advantage that neutered cats bury their droppings and their urine is less smelly.

Hazards in the Garden

While cats rarely nibble anything but grass, it is wise to find out whether your yard contains any toxic plants. Be cautious where you put down common toxins such as slug bait and rodent poisons. While some products are formulated to be safe for use with pets, others can be lethal.

You should ensure that your cat does not come into contact with or try to eat the remains of animals that have ingested poison. Ponds and wading pools are also  potential hazards, especially for young kittens.

Until a kitten knows his way around, allow him out only under careful supervision. As a precaution, cover fishponds with netting—which will also stop older cats from poaching fish—and empty out wading pools when not in use.

Keep shed and garage doors shut to prevent your cat from coming into contact with chemicals and sharp tools. Make sure that you do not accidentally shut your cat in, too. If you have a greenhouse in your yard, you should keep it closed at all times.

A cat trapped inside is at risk of heatstroke. Do not forget to protect your yard against the cat. Children’s sandpits and soft soil make inviting litter trays, so cover up the sandpit and scatter cat deterrents around precious plants.

Catflaps

A catflap is a handy way to allow your cat freedom of movement between your house and the outside. Cats will quickly learn to use a flap once they have been shown how it works. Install a catflap that recognizes your cat’s microchip or a magnet on your cat’s collar, to prevent other cats from entering your home.

All catflaps should be lockable—for when you go on vacation, and also if you want to keep your cat indoors, such as at dawn, dusk, and evenings when there are firework displays.

Outdoor Hazards

Cats with white coats or patches of white can be susceptible to sunburn, especially on the nose, eyelids, and tips of the ears. As in humans, persistent sunburn can lead to the development of skin cancers, so keep your pet’s sensitive areas covered with a sunblock formulated for cats.

Shut your cat indoors during firework displays and mask the noise with music. Let your cat hide if he wants to. Do not reassure him, since this may be taken as a sign that you are afraid, too.

Other cats and sometimes dogs may be threats to your cat. Fox attacks on cats are occasionally reported but are relatively uncommon. In some regions, venomous snakes can be a danger.

The post Going Outdoors appeared first on CatPedia.

While you cannot make a house completely cat-proof, you will need to take certain precautions. You must also be prepared to organize your cat’s exercise and entertainment.

Indoor Cats

Your cat is likely to live longer and face fewer hazards if he is kept indoors rather than allowed to roam outside. However, indoor life is not entirely problem-free; it will be your responsibility to keep your cat safe, happy, and active.

If you are out at work all day, your cat will need a regular playtime or, better still, a companion. Bored cats grow frustrated and stressed and will constantly pester you for attention when you get home.

Without enough exercise, indoor cats can become overweight and unhealthy, and stress may manifest itself in unwanted behavior.

Hazards in the Home

Cats left alone in the house usually sleep a great deal of the time, but in their wakeful periods they may amuse themselves by  going exploring. Make sure that nothing likely to be investigated by an inquisitive  cat can cause any harm. Most potential dangers to your cat are found in the kitchen.

Never leave anything unattended that your cat could jump on or knock over, such as a switched-on burner,  an iron, or sharp utensils. Keep the doors of washing machines or dryers closed (but first make sure your cat is not inside), and double- check before you switch on the appliance.

Cats are less inclined than dogs to steal food, raid the garbage bin, or chew up forbidden items such as electric cords,  but they still need to be protected from substances that could make them sick.

Keep them away from wet paint and chemical cleaners, which are easily transferred from walls and floors to fur, and then licked off and swallowed. Check that there are no dangers lurking in the carpet, such as thumbtacks, needles, or shards of broken glass or china.

Keep small pet animals and birds out  of temptation’s way, especially while you  are out. A predatory cat may not be able to resist harassing the occupants of a hamster cage or investigating a fish bowl, causing damage and distress for all concerned.

Indoor Plants

Many common indoor plants, including lilies, geraniums, cyclamen, and various potted bulbs such as daffodils, are toxic to cats if eaten. Keep houseplants off the floor and low tables, and cover the soil in the pot with chippings or pebbles to discourage digging.

If your cat likes to nibble your houseplants, buy him his own special cat grass from a pet store or garden center— or grow it yourself from seed—and place it away from other plants. If all else fails, you could try spraying around houseplants with a citrus-scented cat repellent.

Call of the Outdoors

Despite their natural instincts, most cats kept indoors from birth will rarely want to venture out because they see your home as their territory. Once they get a taste for going out, however, they may want to do it more frequently and take any chance to escape.

If so, you will have to be vigilant about closing windows and doors. Be extra careful in a high-rise apartment—despite their balance and agility, cats have died after falling from an open window or jumping over a balcony while chasing birds or insects.

Keeping Active

Physical and mental activity is vital for your cat’s health. If he lives permanently indoors, you will have to organize this for him. Indoor cats need space to play, so they should have access to several rooms if possible, especially if you have more than one cat—like us, cats need “personal space.”

To give your cat a breath of fresh air you could screen off a porch, patio, or balcony that he can access through a catflap. If you live in an apartment, consider allowing your cat out into the hallway for a run-around game.

First check that all doors leading to the outside are closed. Even a cat that spends his life indoors  will retain his natural instinct to stalk and catch prey. Without an outlet for his hunting instinct, a cat may turn to “catching” and chewing household objects.

To prevent this, give him plenty of interesting toys to play with. Toys that allow you to interact with your cat are just as important as those that will keep him occupied when you are out. Set aside some time each day to give your cat your undivided attention.

Unwanted Behavior

Other types of “outdoor” behavior can be  a problem in the home. A cat scratches to stretch and keep its claws healthy and also to make visual and scented territorial markings. To prevent your sofa from being used as a substitute for a tree or  a fence, buy a scratching post  or mat to satisfy your cat’s natural need. Indoor cats may also exhibit stress-related behavior such as biting, spraying, or inappropriate urinating.

Pheromone therapy in the form of a spray or plug-in dispenser uses a synthetic version of natural feline pheromones that may reduce the anxiety that leads to such problems.

Indoor Checklist

• Never leave heated kitchen appliances,  such as stovetops and irons, unattended
• Do not leave sharp utensils and breakables within the cat’s reach
• Shut the doors of cupboards and appliances such as washing machines and dryers
• Keep your cat away from wet paint or surfaces wet with cleaning chemicals
• Protect open fires with a guard
• Ensure that your cat cannot jump out  of upper-floor windows
• Do not place toxic houseplants where  your cat could eat or brush against them

The post Living Indoors appeared first on CatPedia.

Other vaccines, including those for the feline immunodeficiency virus (feline AIDS), feline infectious peritonitis (FIP), ringworm, Chlamydophila, and Bordetella are optional, and should be administered only on veterinary recommendation.

The school of thought regarding canine and feline immunizations has changed. Many veterinary practitioners and veterinary schools are using extended vaccination schedules in lieu of the traditional “yearly booster” approach. These changes in traditional protocol are based on research findings indicating that:

• Certain vaccines may provide extended immunity and, in some cases, lifelong immunity after an initial series of immunizations.
• Vaccines administered after this immunity has been established may be neutralized and rendered ineffective by the pet’s immune system.
• Repeated immunization using certain vaccine agents, especially those that contain adjuvants (chemical compounds designed to increase the effectiveness of the vaccine), has been linked to allergic reactions, autoimmune disease, and feline sarcoma, a deadly form of cancer in cats.

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Since different companies may have different policies, check ahead of time with the airline concerning its travel rules and requirements for pets. Many airlines will allow you to take a cat or small dog into the cabin with you; however, realize that for the comfort of you and fellow passengers, it must be well behaved and silent during the trip.

If you fear that these two criteria will not be met, your pet should travel cargo. If your cat is to travel cargo, book either an early evening or early morning flight during the summer months and midday flights during winter months to protect it from exposure to temperature extremes. Also, book direct flights only so that there’s no chance of “lost baggage.”

If possible, plan on arriving early enough at the gate so that you can observe your pet being loaded onto the plane. If you own a pet carrier that is not fit for air travel, most airlines have carriers for rent; however, be sure that the carrier selected for your pet is the proper size for its safety during the flight.

Call ahead of time to confirm carrier availability. You will want to pad the inside of the carrier liberally with large blankets and/or towels. And don’t forget to throw in one of your  cat’s favorite toys! A “live animal” sticker, as well as your name, address, and phone number, should be attached conspicuously to the outside of the carrier.

Avoid feeding your pet solid food within 6 hours of the plane trip. Provide a constant source of water during the flight by freezing water in a water bowl the night prior to your trip and placing this in your pet’s carrier prior to the flight.

The post Traveling Your Cat by Air appeared first on CatPedia.

For example, cats can be vaccinated against feline infectious enteritis, feline herpes virus, and feline calcivirus.

Stress

Cats are easily stressed. A change at home is often the cause, such as the arrival of a new pet or baby, or even the rearrangement of furniture. Stress causes the release of hormones such as epinephrine (adrenalin) and cortisol.

In the short term, these hormones increase awareness and energy but if their release is prolonged, they dampen the immune system, impairing a cat’s ability to protect itself against infections and cancer and to recover speedily after illness.

Chemicals called endorphins are released by the brain when a cat is highly excited, such as during a fight with another cat or animal. In such cases, endorphins have a protective role because they are natural painkillers, lessening the discomfort of any teeth and claw wounds inflicted.

The post Cat’s Vaccinations and Stress appeared first on CatPedia.

By monitoring your cat for changes in activity or behavior, you can spot illness or injury at an early stage. Similarly, a vet can assess your cat’s condition at regular check-ups and keep records of any problems.

Appearance and Behavior

It is normal for a cat to be shy at first, but as he gets used to you his personality will emerge. In general, your cat should look alert and happy, whether he is naturally outgoing or more reserved.

Note how he moves (fast or leisurely) and what sounds he makes (meowing, chirruping). Watch how he interacts with you and your family—he should come to trust you and be happy to see you, especially once he has realized that you provide the food.

Note how your cat eats and drinks—he should have a good appetite and eat without difficulty. Cats prefer to eat little and often. Since they get most of their moisture from food, cats will not drink as often as they eat, but they may drink more if fed solely on dry food.

If your cat uses a litter box, remove waste from it several times a day. This way you will learn how often your cat normally passes feces and urine.

Finally, watch for unusual behavior, such as excessive licking of a body part, pawing the face, or shaking the head. These activities could suggest a wound, parasite infestation, or something stuck in the skin or coat.

Home Checks

Perform regular head-to-tail checks. With a new cat, do this every day; once you know your cat, every two or three days should be enough. If necessary, split the task into several mini-checks of a few minutes each.

First, run your hands over your cat’s head, body, and legs. Gently squeeze the abdomen to feel for lumps or sore spots. Move his legs and tail to ensure that they move freely. Feel the ribs and look at the waist to check that he is not becoming too fat or thin.

Examine the eyes. Watch the blink rate: cats normally blink more slowly than we do. Check that the pupils respond correctly to light and dark and that the third eyelid is barely visible. Check that the cat is not holding his ears or head at a strange angle.

Check the ears for soreness, parasites, or dark wax. Check that the nose is cool, damp, and free of excess mucus.

Look inside the mouth to check the gums for inflamed areas or bleeding. The breath should not smell bad. Press the outer gum briefly: it should go pale, but quickly turn pink when you stop.

The coat should feel smooth and not greasy. Look and feel for lumps, wounds, bald spots, or parasites. Gently lift the scruff of the neck and then let go; the skin should quickly return to normal.

Check the claws. They should be almost totally hidden when they are retracted and should not catch on carpets and other surfaces.

Look under the tail to check the area is clean and has no redness, swelling, or sign of worms.

Detecting Problems

Cats are notorious for hiding any signs of pain, illness, or injury. In the wild, their survival would depend on not showing weakness to avoid attracting the attention of predators.

This ruse also means, however, that owners might not notice problems until they have become severe. If your cat seems more hungry or thirsty than usual, refuses to eat, or loses weight, you need to consult a vet.

If your cat cries or strains when passing urine or feces, or has accidents in the home, it could signify an internal disorder and may require the immediate attention of a vet.

Changes in behavior could also indicate problems. Your cat may be reluctant to come to you or may hide himself away. He may be less active or may sleep more than usual. He may become abnormally timid or aggressive. Consult the vet immediately if you notice any of these signs.

Annual Check-Ups

Your cat should have a regular health check at least once a year. The vet will assess his condition by checking the cat from head to tail, feeling for any tenderness or lumps. A booster vaccination may be given.

The vet will also inspect your cat for parasites and give you advice on administering worming and flea treatments. Your vet may clip your cat’s claws, if necessary, especially if he is a house cat or elderly.

Healthy Behavior

• Expression bright and alert
• Runs and jumps freely
• Friendly or calm with people
• Grooms self easily
• Eats and drinks normal amounts
• Urinates and defecates normally

The post A Healthy Cat appeared first on CatPedia.

If you make introductions carefully and sensitively, your cat will grow into a confident, friendly animal that can cope with a variety of social situations.

Start Early

Socialization should start in kittenhood. Give your kitten plenty of opportunities to meet new people, cats, and dogs, and make it a fun and rewarding experience. Introduce him to friends, neighbors, and the vet at an early stage; keep initial encounters brief and reward your kitten with treats for good behavior.

A cat that is not exposed to new situations as a kitten may grow up to be timid and fearful and will likely react badly to being touched or approached by strangers or other animals.

It is important that your kitten gets used
to being handled and that it is given plenty of play designed to hone his predatory skills, but let him sleep when he wants to.

Socializing an Adult Cat

If you are adopting an adult cat, it will take longer than a kitten to adapt to new people and surroundings. Changes in routine are upsetting for an older cat. Try to get as much information as possible from the previous owner or animal shelter about the cat’s habits, personality, and favorite food and toys.

Familiar objects can help him to settle in, so try to bring some of his old bedding or toys to make him feel more secure. Provide him with a refuge, such as a carrier or box, to which he can retreat and feel safe.

An older cat may initially be wary of contact with his new owners and may resist being touched. Let him explore his surroundings in his own time. Talk to him in a low, soothing tone so that he gets used to your presence and the sound of your voice.

One of the chief problems with poorly socialized cats is that they play too rough, biting and scratching to get what they want. If that is the case, simply stop playing with him, say “no” in a firm voice, and give him a toy instead.

Give plenty of praise when your cat is playing nicely with you, but also praise him when he takes his aggression out on a toy. That way, he will learn that he can play hard with toys but not with you.

Instead of forcing your cat to meet strangers, let him approach them when he is ready;
once he realizes that nothing bad is going to happen, he will become more confident and trusting. If you have to leave your cat to be looked after by friends or neighbors, get him used to the new people before asking them to come to your home.

Introducing a New Baby

If your cat has always been the center of attention, he may become jealous of the competition for affection when a new baby arrives. Some careful preparation can help prevent this.

Before the birth, allow your cat to examine the baby’s room and equipment, but make it clear that he is not allowed in on his own and that the crib, baby basket, and stroller are off limits. If your cat has any behavioral problems that you need to address, now is the time to do it, since they may get worse when the baby arrives.

When you bring the baby home for the first time, allow your cat to sit next to the baby and give him treats for good behavior so that he associates the baby with a positive experience. Never leave the baby and cat alone together.

Close the door to the room where your baby is sleeping. Try to keep your cat’s routine as normal as possible and make sure he gets his share of attention from someone in the family.

Other Cats in the Home

Your cat sees your home as his territory and bringing another adult cat into the house may be seen as a threat. A new kitten, however, is more likely to be tolerated by the resident cat. Keep a lookout for bullying and jealousy on the part of the adult cat.

If it looks like the older cat is picking on the kitten, keep the two apart until the newcomer is more able to look after itself. Remember, this is the older cat’s territory and his natural instinct is to protect it from interlopers, however small.

Make sure that the older cat gets his share of love and attention, and reward him with treats for good behavior. The two will gradually get used to each other and develop a companionable truce.

Meeting Other Pets

Whether you are introducing a new cat to a dog or a new dog to a cat, similar methods of socializing them can be used. When you first bring your new cat home, put him in a room that the dog does not need to access until the cat has settled in.

Alternatively, put up a barrier or put the dog in a crate. While the cat is getting used to his new surroundings, let the dog smell the cat’s scent by rubbing the dog with a towel that you have previously rubbed on the cat or letting the dog sniff your hands after handling the cat.

Do the same with the cat. Once the dog is familiar with the cat’s scent, put the dog on a leash and bring him to the door of the cat’s room. Do not allow any bad behavior such as barking, scratching, or lunging.

If the dog behaves properly, try letting him off the leash. Sadly, some dogs may never be safe to leave with a cat. If that is the case, you will have to keep them separate or supervise their encounters at all times.

Feline hunting instincts are very close to the surface, so small pets such as hamsters or rabbits are best left out of introductions to your new cat.

Cat and dog together

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