Properly managed, such programs can be a satisfactory solution to the problem of feral colonies that have become too large or need to be relocated because of health issues.

Although the animals concerned are not regarded as pets, the people who “adopt” them must agree to provide minimum shelter, a small daily amount of cat food to augment whatever prey is taken by hunting, and veterinary care if necessary.

The post Barn Cats appeared first on CatPedia.

When selecting toys for your new kitten or cat, be sure that they cannot be torn apart easily and that they do not contain small parts that could be swallowed. Wrinkled paper and shoeboxes are intriguing to most cats. Rubber balls or mice too large to swallow, as well as cat-nip toys (again, constructed for safety), are also considered safe toys.

If a string is attached to a toy in order to entice a cat to play, always remove it after the play session is over. Along the same lines, never use ribbon or laces as play items. If a cat swallows such items, they could damage their intestines and have to be removed surgically.

It is fine to play intensely with a kitten, but overt roughhousing should be avoided. If a play session progresses from a friendly romp to an all-out frontal assault, end it immediately. Your pet needs to learn how to keep its activity level to a socially acceptable intensity. Also, be sure that the youngster gets plenty of time to rest after an especially active play period.

The post Rules of Play appeared first on CatPedia.

Kittens learn to purr at about one week old (before their eyes open), and biologists believe that it developed as a way for kittens to communicate to the mother that she needs to be still while they are feeding. The mother may join in, too, to reassure her young.

Cats also produce an urgent, “solicitous” purr, which they use when wanting to be fed by their owners. This sound is a mixture of the low-pitched rumble of a regular purr and a higher-frequency meow.

Analysis of the meow element shows that its frequency is similar to that of the cry of a human baby, which may help explain our willingness to feed an insistent cat. Among older cats, purring may also communicate nonaggression, vulnerability, or a request from one cat grooming another for it to stay still.

The post Cat’s Purring appeared first on CatPedia.

Because food supplies can be scarce and unreliable, any feral cats within one area tend to be drawn to a common food source, such as a garbage dump, a feeding station organized by cat welfare organizations, or an empty building overrun by rats and mice. Out of necessity, these cats tolerate each other and will share resources with minimal aggression.

Where a few feral cats have found shelter, a colony can build up, which over the years can amount to dozens of animals of several interrelated generations. Any unneutered females attract toms—entire males—and frequent matings produce two or more litters of kittens a year for each female.

Established colonies are very much matriarchal societies, with a core population of females that often form close bonds. Female cats have been observed sharing birth dens and cooperatively nursing and raising litters of kittens, taking turns guarding the family when one of the mothers goes out hunting.

Feral females have even been known to present a combined front to fight off marauding toms, which are a constant peril with their desire to kill off kittens and so bring the females back into season for further matings.

As a feral colony expands, the dynamic within it changes, with stronger toms ousting weaker rivals that then either hang around the periphery of the group or strike out on their own to find more congenial territory. Occasionally, males born within a colony do become accepted by the senior members simply because of their familiarity, but a strange tom attempting to infiltrate the group is usually rejected vigorously.

The post Cats Sticking Together appeared first on CatPedia.

If you make introductions carefully and sensitively, your cat will grow into a confident, friendly animal that can cope with a variety of social situations.

Start Early

Socialization should start in kittenhood. Give your kitten plenty of opportunities to meet new people, cats, and dogs, and make it a fun and rewarding experience. Introduce him to friends, neighbors, and the vet at an early stage; keep initial encounters brief and reward your kitten with treats for good behavior.

A cat that is not exposed to new situations as a kitten may grow up to be timid and fearful and will likely react badly to being touched or approached by strangers or other animals.

It is important that your kitten gets used
to being handled and that it is given plenty of play designed to hone his predatory skills, but let him sleep when he wants to.

Socializing an Adult Cat

If you are adopting an adult cat, it will take longer than a kitten to adapt to new people and surroundings. Changes in routine are upsetting for an older cat. Try to get as much information as possible from the previous owner or animal shelter about the cat’s habits, personality, and favorite food and toys.

Familiar objects can help him to settle in, so try to bring some of his old bedding or toys to make him feel more secure. Provide him with a refuge, such as a carrier or box, to which he can retreat and feel safe.

An older cat may initially be wary of contact with his new owners and may resist being touched. Let him explore his surroundings in his own time. Talk to him in a low, soothing tone so that he gets used to your presence and the sound of your voice.

One of the chief problems with poorly socialized cats is that they play too rough, biting and scratching to get what they want. If that is the case, simply stop playing with him, say “no” in a firm voice, and give him a toy instead.

Give plenty of praise when your cat is playing nicely with you, but also praise him when he takes his aggression out on a toy. That way, he will learn that he can play hard with toys but not with you.

Instead of forcing your cat to meet strangers, let him approach them when he is ready;
once he realizes that nothing bad is going to happen, he will become more confident and trusting. If you have to leave your cat to be looked after by friends or neighbors, get him used to the new people before asking them to come to your home.

Introducing a New Baby

If your cat has always been the center of attention, he may become jealous of the competition for affection when a new baby arrives. Some careful preparation can help prevent this.

Before the birth, allow your cat to examine the baby’s room and equipment, but make it clear that he is not allowed in on his own and that the crib, baby basket, and stroller are off limits. If your cat has any behavioral problems that you need to address, now is the time to do it, since they may get worse when the baby arrives.

When you bring the baby home for the first time, allow your cat to sit next to the baby and give him treats for good behavior so that he associates the baby with a positive experience. Never leave the baby and cat alone together.

Close the door to the room where your baby is sleeping. Try to keep your cat’s routine as normal as possible and make sure he gets his share of attention from someone in the family.

Other Cats in the Home

Your cat sees your home as his territory and bringing another adult cat into the house may be seen as a threat. A new kitten, however, is more likely to be tolerated by the resident cat. Keep a lookout for bullying and jealousy on the part of the adult cat.

If it looks like the older cat is picking on the kitten, keep the two apart until the newcomer is more able to look after itself. Remember, this is the older cat’s territory and his natural instinct is to protect it from interlopers, however small.

Make sure that the older cat gets his share of love and attention, and reward him with treats for good behavior. The two will gradually get used to each other and develop a companionable truce.

Meeting Other Pets

Whether you are introducing a new cat to a dog or a new dog to a cat, similar methods of socializing them can be used. When you first bring your new cat home, put him in a room that the dog does not need to access until the cat has settled in.

Alternatively, put up a barrier or put the dog in a crate. While the cat is getting used to his new surroundings, let the dog smell the cat’s scent by rubbing the dog with a towel that you have previously rubbed on the cat or letting the dog sniff your hands after handling the cat.

Do the same with the cat. Once the dog is familiar with the cat’s scent, put the dog on a leash and bring him to the door of the cat’s room. Do not allow any bad behavior such as barking, scratching, or lunging.

If the dog behaves properly, try letting him off the leash. Sadly, some dogs may never be safe to leave with a cat. If that is the case, you will have to keep them separate or supervise their encounters at all times.

Feline hunting instincts are very close to the surface, so small pets such as hamsters or rabbits are best left out of introductions to your new cat.

Cat and dog together

The post Socializing Your Cat appeared first on CatPedia.

Kind, effective training involves setting up house rules, rewarding “good” behavior, and ignoring “bad” behavior. This in turn will make it easier for you to control and manage your pet.

Anything for Food

Cats are happy to learn if there is an edible reward. Unlike dogs, cats do not respond to discipline. Simply calling to your cat will not teach him to sit or come to you, but a tasty titbit—such as a dried chicken treat or a dehydrated shrimp—and lots of gentle praise will help.

Cats learn best when hungry, so try training just before meals. Break treats into small portions—too many too soon and your cat will stop feeling hungry and lose interest.

Cats learn best from about four months old. Young kittens lack concentration; old cats are generally not interested. Active shorthaired cats, such as Siamese, are generally easier to train than other breeds.

Name Training

Your cat cannot be trained unless he has a name—preferably a short name of one or two syllables that he will find easy to recognize and respond to. If you’ve adopted an adult cat, it’s best not to change his name, even if you dislike it.

Training sessions should last for one or two minutes, never much longer, and preferably in a quiet room free of distractions. To get a cat to come to you, call him by his name while tempting him with a treat. As he approaches, take a step back and say “Come.”

When he has walked up to you, give the treat immediately and praise him. Repeat this, increasing the distance each time until he will run to you from another room on hearing your command. If you then phase out the treats, he should still respond to your call.

Once your cat has learned to come when called, you can try training him to meow on cue. Hold a treat in your hand and call to him, but withhold the treat until he meows—even if he tries to swipe the morsel from your hand.

As soon as he meows, say his name and at the same time hand over the treat. Practice both with and without giving a treat to reinforce the behavior, until your cat always meows at the sound of his name.

Clicker Training

If you want to teach your cat some basic tricks—for example, going into his carrier— clicker training is very effective. A clicker is a small device with a metal tab that clicks when pressed.

By clicking when your cat is doing the “right” thing, and immediately offering him a treat, you can train him to associate a click with something good and to perform the desired behavior on request.

Realistic Expectations

Domestic life can frustrate a cat’s natural predatory instincts. Cats are motivated to hunt, climb, jump, and scratch, so be prepared to accept these as normal behavior. However, if you find any of these problematic, try to provide safe and acceptable alternatives, such as interactive toys or a scratching post.

Never punish your cat or forcibly restrain him from behaving naturally, but use physical barriers if there is a risk he might harm himself or damage property.

The post Training Your Cat appeared first on CatPedia.

Solid training can also keep your cat out of troublesome situations that could threaten both its health and yours.

There is one characteristic exhibited by every good trainer: patience. Without this virtue, you’re going to have a tough time teaching your cat anything. You need to set aside time each day for training and resolve to stick to it.

Keep in mind that it will only be a temporary dip into your time budget. After all, the more time you devote from the start, the quicker and more satisfying the results will be.

What about training school? Is it worth the time and the money? The answer is “Yes” if it will motivate you to devote the time for the task at hand. You still have to be physically present during the training.

If you choose this route, enroll in an active-participation class in which an instructor directs you and your cat through the training session. However, keep in mind that such a class doesn’t relieve you of your homework duties. You still need to practice with your kitten daily on your home turf.

Main Principles of Training

For any training method to be effective, it must follow some basic principles to ensure its success. Some of these principles are described in the following paragraphs.

Consistency and Repetition

The magic success formula for all training endeavors is derived from two key concepts: consistency and repetition. Consistency provides the building blocks; repetition is the mortar that holds the program together. Without the two, you might as well try to teach a rock how to fetch. The results will be the same!

Consistency means more than just using the same commands over and over again. It also means using the same praises and corrections each time and keeping your voice tones consistently unique for each.

Even your body language and postures used during training should remain uniform between sessions. As trivial as it might seem, cats pick up on stuff like that. Cats also like routine, so stick to it. Train at the same hour each day and for the same length of time for each daily session.

Just as important as consistency to a cat’s learning process is repetition. Repeating an action or
 training drill over and over
 will help reinforce the positive response you are looking 
for. Furthermore, the more
 repetition you implement into training, the leaner and more refined your pet’s learned skills become.

Verbal Praise

Use verbal praise instead of physical pain in your training sessions. Food treats are fine as a reward supplement, but they should never replace verbal compliments. Punishment might be warranted if your pet purposely disobeys a command or commits an undesirable act, but this should never take the form of physical punishment.

There are alternative means, each of which is at least just as effective as physical violence.

Punishment

Cats can be reprimanded effectively with a sharp verbal “No.” Water sprayers, air horns, a can full of coins, handheld vacuums, and so on can all be used to gain
your pet’s attention quickly without inflicting any pain. If you decide to use punishment, be sure to institute it quickly, preferably within 5 seconds of the act.

If you don’t apply it before this time expires, any punishment thereafter might satisfy your anger, but it will serve no useful training purpose. Don’t extend your punishment past a few seconds. Prolonged exhortations will only confuse your pet (and might cause you to lose your voice).

Never use your pet’s name during the negative reinforcement. If you do, your pet might start to associate its name with the bad act and eventually become a basket case whenever the name is called. Reserve this name calling for positive, happy experiences only.

If you do punish, always follow it up shortly thereafter with a command or drill that will lead to a praise situation. Remember that the most effective training programs rely on praise more than on punishment.

Other Suggestions

1. Get the whole family involved. In any training situation, always try to involve all members of the family. An all-too-common scenario is one in which a pet virtually ignores the commands of anyone but the one person who trained it.To avoid this, get the whole family involved. Just be sure to remain consistent within the family with regard to the training methods and commands used.
2. Use short commands. All verbal commands you employ need to be kept short and sweet. Using slightly different voice tones for each command will help prevent confusion. If verbal punishment is to be used, make certain that it is totally different in tone and in presentation than the other commands.
3. Start young. Always start your pet’s training at an early age. While it is true that certain advanced training techniques can be best taught at around 6 months of age, basic training, should be started as early as 8 weeks of age. If basic command training is not taught this early in life, bad habits arise later on, some of which can put a damper on future training efforts.
4. Keep training sessions short. Try to keep the training sessions short and to the point. For kittens 8 to 12 weeks of age, devoting 10 minutes two to three times daily will yield excellent results.As your pet matures, the length of each of these sessions can increase. Let your pet’s attitude be your judge. If it seems bored or indifferent, or has become totally unruly, you have probably exceeded its attention span.
5. End on a good note. Always end your training session on a good note. Doing so is very constructive in terms of your pet’s mental development, and effectively sets the tone for the next session.

The post Training Essentials for Cats appeared first on CatPedia.

Also, for predominately outdoor cats that spend their time indoors destroying the furniture with their claws, declawing might be the answer. It is important to remember, however, that cats without their front claws cannot climb as well (although they can still climb!) as they could with them, and they might have trouble avoiding hostile dogs or fellow cats that they might encounter.

Declawing can be performed as early as 12 weeks of age. In fact, younger cats seem to recover much faster from the surgery than do older cats, primarily due to the immature development of the blood supply and other supporting structures to the nails at a younger age.

Before the decision is made to declaw your cat, try to train it to a scratching post first. If done correctly, you might find that it just may solve the problem. Also, consider keeping your cat’s nails clipped short to minimize the damage caused by its scratching activity. Since the nails of cats are somewhat fragile, be sure that the nail clippers you use are sharp. Guillotine-type clippers available from pet stores work best.

When clipping the nail back, be sure to stop short of the pink “quick,” which contains the blood supply to the nail. However, if an accident does happen, the bleeding can be controlled with direct pressure to the site through the use of clotting powder, again available at a local pet store.

Finally, special nail covers are also available to minimize the damage associated with scratching activity. However, if none of the aforementioned options work, then removal of the front claws might be the only choice left to preserve that happy owner-pet relationship.

The post Declawing Cats appeared first on CatPedia.

There are right and wrong ways to handle a cat—learn how  to do it correctly and the chances are your cat will enjoy the opportunity to get closer to you. If a cat is comfortable with being held, grooming and any necessary health checks will be made much easier.

Start Early

The best time to get a cat used to being handled is when it is a kitten. Early and routine contact from about two or three weeks old helps kittens not only to develop faster but also to grow into more contented cats that are happy to be handled by humans.

If you have children, teach them  to be gentle. Mishandled kittens grow into nervous cats who keep their distance from people and never really learn to enjoy fussing and petting. Cats have long memories and will always avoid children who have handled them too roughly.

Some cats are simply less demonstrative than others, regardless of their early experiences. If your pet likes to maintain  a friendly distance, respect his wishes.

How to Pick Up a Cat

Cats rarely enjoy being picked up, so only lift your cat when necessary, unless you are sure he welcomes it. Handle him calmly and quietly, stroking his head, back, and cheeks to relax him. If he wants to be put down again, he will make his feelings clear.

A very young kitten can be picked up by the scruff of his neck, like his mother does, but he will need more support as he gets older and heavier. When his mother stops picking him up like this, so should you.

From then on, the correct way to pick up your cat will be to approach from the side and place one hand flat against his rib cage, just behind his front legs. Use the other hand to support him under his hind quarters. Hold him upright, as cradling him in your arms can increase his sense of insecurity.

Different Strokes

Cats are more independent than most  other pet animals and although many like stroking and cuddles, they still appreciate their own space. Do not try to stroke your cat unless he clearly shows that he is willing to be touched. Put out a hand or finger for him to sniff.

If he touches you with his nose or rubs his cheek or body against you, he  is in the mood for contact. If he shows no interest, leave it until another time. Once your cat is amenable to being petted, begin by stroking him along his back in a slow, continuous motion.

Always go from head to tail, never the other way against the direction of the fur. Stop when you reach  the base of his tail. If your cat is enjoying  it, he may arch his back to increase the pressure of your hand. Learn how your cat likes to be petted.  The top of the head, especially between  and behind the ears, is often a favorite place.

It is thought that being stroked in this particular spot reminds cats of when their mother used to lick them there. Some cats also like being stroked under the chin. Rubbing the cheeks with a circular motion is popular with many cats, because it helps them spread their scent on to your fingers.

Your cat may like being raked gently with the fingers, but do not stop and scratch him  in one place. Most cats dislike being patted, especially along the flank. When your cat jumps on to your lap and lies down, pet him once to see if he wants attention or just a warm place to snooze.

If he fidgets or his tail twitches, stop stroking. A cat that is enjoying being petted may change his position so that the part he wants stroking is uppermost and closest  to your hand.

Rough and Tumble

Some cats like rough play and will grab and “play bite” at a hand that tries to rub their belly. If your cat sinks his claws in, keep still until he disengages. Pushing farther in toward him may surprise him enough to let go. In general, when you stop, so will he.

If he kicks with his back legs at your hand, do not assume that he wants his paws touched. Try stroking one foot lightly  with a finger in the direction of his fur;  if he pulls his foot away, flattens his ears,  or walks off, let him be.

Knowing When to Stop

Watch your cat’s body language and stop petting him if he seems to be getting angry. One of the early warning signs that a cat is feeling ill at ease is lip-licking. Be careful if he is lying on his back exposing his belly, since this is not necessarily an invitation to pet, although he may tolerate you touching his head.

Even in a normally docile cat, presenting the belly may be an aggressive defense posture that leaves him free to kick,  bite, or claw. If you misjudge his mood and are rewarded with a bite or a scratch that breaks the skin, wash the wound with soap and water and treat it with antiseptic.

See your doctor if the area around the bite swells or reddens and starts oozing. Occasionally, infection acquired through a cat scratch can cause symptoms in other parts of the body and, uncommonly,  a flulike illness.

Approach With Caution

Never try to pick up or pet a cat that does not know you. Give him time to sniff and investigate you, and try stroking him while talking in a calm tone. If he gets used to you  being friendly he may let you handle him on further acquaintance. If he seems at all nervous, back off, since he may lash out.

Be especially cautious about attempting  to pick up or even stroke feral cats, however much you feel they are in need of affection. Although the most likely response of a feral cat to well-meant approaches from humans is to run off— unless perhaps food is involved—an animal that feels cornered or threatened may instinctively resort to aggression. In certain countries, a bite from a feral cat could carry the risk of infection with rabies.

The post How to Handle Your Cat appeared first on CatPedia.

If your cat is engaged in destructive scratching, you haven’t satisfied a basic need. A scratching post is a required tool for anyone who owns a cat. In fact, it is preferable to train a cat on a scratching post right from the start instead of bringing one in to offset problem scratching activity.

If your cat seems to fancy one or more particular pieces of furniture in your home, see if you can catch it in the act. If you do, use a blast of water or compressed air from a sprayer or canister to reprimand it, then leave the sprayer or canister sitting beside or on top of the piece of furniture for several days.

Most cats will avoid that piece of furniture like the plague from that point on. Some persons recommend commercial cat repellents or vinegar be used on furniture to discourage scratching, but these can be messy and could stain your furniture.

For that feline that seems refractory to punishment, try placing the scratching post near its favorite piece of furniture and allow it to make a choice. Make the scratching post as plush and tempting as possible. Catnip attached to the post can help lure a reluctant cat to its new scratching post. Be sure to reward your cat for making the switch.

Special nail covers are available through veterinarians and pet stores and can be applied to the nails of your cat to prevent scratching. Surgical removal of its front claws can also be considered to spare your house from total destruction.

The post Destructive Scratching appeared first on CatPedia.